I was sitting next to a beauty editor last month. We were discussing skincare regimes. So far so normal. Then she told me in hushed, conspiratorial tones, ‘I’m currently using vaginal oestrogen cream.’ Me: ‘On your face???’ Her: ‘Yes.’
Last month, The New York Times ran an article asking: ‘Can Oestrogen Cream Reverse Skin Ageing?’ The answer from experts was it’s ‘plausible’ but more research was needed.
Meanwhile, many of us women have been using the oestrogen cream prescribed by our GPs for its intended use on and around our foufs to hydrate and plump up atrophied skin down there. But does its (frankly miraculous) rejuvenating capability translate to our faces? My friend looked absolutely glowing. But then, full disclosure, she always does.
Of course I investigate. A feature on New York magazine’s thecut.com points out that brands such as Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein used oestrogen in their creams from the 1940s to the 70s, when it became classified as a drug so was no longer allowed in over-the-counter cosmetic products.
Now, as shown by my beauty-editor friend, there is a revival of interest in using oestrogen on our faces. The aim is to increase collagen production, retain and restore moisture and improve skin firmness and elasticity. Dr Anne Henderson, a consultant gynaecologist, says she thinks oestrogen could be a ‘game changer’ in skincare but cautions that ‘when it is formulated for use in the genital area it is not so suitable for the face. It can contain additives, alcohol and unnecessary colorants.’
So Dr Henderson is working on creating a formula that incorporates oestrogen at the correct strength and includes other proven skincare ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. Is there a potential health risk in applying hormones to your face? To keep it safe, she says, ‘it will need to be strictly monitored and specially prescribed’. This is not something you will ever be able to just pick up off the shelf. Interested? If so, keep an eye out for details at Dr Henderson’s website (gynae-expert.co.uk) over the next few months.
If that wasn’t wacky enough, there is also a trend for using grocery-store beef tallow (AKA rendered beef fat traditionally used in cooking and soap-making) on your face. It is touted on social media as being antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and good at fighting acne. Influencer Nara Smith, a trad-wife TikToker with 11.4 million followers (her husband is model Lucky Blue), has raved about its positive effect on her eczema.
Dermatologist and medical director of the Eudelo clinic Dr Stefanie Williams isn’t convinced. ‘I strongly advise against using beef tallow topically on the skin! It is occlusive, which means it can trap bacteria, dead skin cells and sebum, clogging pores and creating an environment conducive to acne development.’ She goes on to say these influencers should be aware of ‘delayed acne reactions, as the acne lesion development cycle is around eight weeks, so while it may feel fine initially, it may haunt you a couple of months later’. And let’s not even get started on the scent. Proceed with caution, people…
Daise Pomegranate Whip Foaming Body Wash (£5, Tesco stores).
Teens are obsessed with brands such as Sundae, Byoma and Sol de Janeiro, but the new Daise ‘inspired by’ range offers all the fun for a fraction of the price. Prices start at £2.50 for a Hydrating Lip Balm.
Give winter-weary skin a glow-up with these three new products. First is Bare Minerals BarePro Skin-Perfecting Matte Liquid Foundation (£37.50, boots.com), which delivers high coverage while still looking natural. Elf Halo Glow Powder Filter (£14, elfcosmetics. co.uk) is a pressed powder with the sheer finish of a far pricier product, while Mac Hyper Real Serumizer Eye (£45, maccosmetics.co.uk) uses blurring technology to brighten dark circles and niacinamide and vitamin C to reduce them over the long term.