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Update #2: Saturday, 9/10
Hey Everyone,
Over the past few days, several of us editors at Bon Appétit have been talking to each other about how we screwed up and what we can do about it. On Tuesday, we posted a video about Vietnamese pho that emanated from our September magazine Best New Restaurants Issue—we liked the food at this restaurant and wanted to give it some love. But if you were to have watched the video (which has since been taken down), you never would have known the origin of the idea or why we chose the new restaurant we did. Instead, when we titled the video, we relied on a tired journalism trope, "so-and-so-is-the-new-so-and-so!," comparing it to ramen, the Japanese noodle soup it has nothing in common with. And then, to make matters worse, we layered on the title of “PSA: This Is How You Should Be Eating Pho”, a riff on the tired Internet motif of “You're doing it wrong!” But who are we to tell you you're doing something wrong? A fact made abundantly clear in all the comments the video elicited.
Moreover, we misrepresented the chef (who is not Vietnamese), by putting him out there as a pho authority, something he never claimed to be. Instead, he's someone who was kind enough to give us a day of his time so we could film a video in his small, independently owned restaurant, opening himself up to an avalanche of criticism. He is not the one to blame—that’s on us for not doing our diligence as writers, editors, and video producers.
Finally, the video sparked a debate on the issue of cultural appropriation in food, a topic that has deservedly received ample discussion lately. And it's a topic that we editors at BA will discuss in coming weeks, figuring out what role a mainstream food brand like ours should play in regards to it.
Ultimately, as editors, it is our job to understand the impact our words and ideas will have. And when it came to this pho video, our words and ideas caused unnecessary pain and anger. As editors, we failed. And for that, we are truly sorry (something we should have said in our first statement).
What I do know from these past few days and through your feedback and comments is that we made a mistake—and we intend to learn from it. Expect better from us in the future.
Adam Rapoport
Editor in chief, Bon Appétit Magazine
Hey Guys,
In regards to a recent video we posted about making and eating pho, we want you to know that we hear you and we are listening. It is never our intention to offend our readers, which happened in this case. Thank you for calling us out. We believe in celebrating food from all cultures -- we just want to eat and talk about food, all the time. Moreover, we care deeply about supporting local and international food communities.
At the same time, we never want to be a space that allows for harassing comments and threats toward chefs and restaurant owners. Ever. That's not what we're about. Which is why we have taken down this video.
Moving forward, we will continue to strive to get people to cook smarter and eat better. And we will always be mindful of the messages we share.
Thank you, as always, for being a part of what we do.
Original post below
Unlike most noodle soups, pho wakes you up a bit. The light and refreshing broth kills hangovers instead of seducing you into a noodle-fueled nap. That's part of the reason this Vietnamese noodle soup ended up on our list of the coolest restaurant trends for 2016. Chef Tyler Akin of Stock in Philadelphia was gracious enough to run us through his consumption techniques when it comes to pho.
Pho is all about using garnishes that preserve and accentuate the flavor of the broth, and Akin has a pretty specific set of rules to follow to get the most out of your soup. Hits of flavor from jalapeño, lime, and Thai basil—all served as a pretty standard set of garnishes—they provide a fresh jolt of energy to a warm comforting soup. Akin cautions that adding sriracha or hoisin sauce destroys the broth’s flavor, which the chef worked so intently on building. Adding some of the sauce to your pho is fine, but just make sure you try it on its own first. That way you can taste the dish as the chef intended it, before customizing it to your liking.
Akin also demonstrates a chopstick technique that leaves you with a substantial group of noodles, instead of picking and slurping your noodles one by one. It's a simple twirling technique that's a little bit mind-blowing. Whether you agree with his chopstick maneuver or not, just promise us this: When you're charged with the task of dressing your pho, listen to Akin. Show your pho the love it deserves.
Can't make it to Philly? Just go ahead and make your own Quick Pork Pho.
This article's headline has been changed to reflect that there are many ways to eat pho, this is just one of them.
